Cucumbers Masha F1: early and productive

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Gardeners and gardeners dream of growing a large harvest that would delight in early spring, all summer and late autumn. Cucumber Masha F1 is suitable for growing in various climatic zones of our vast country. It differs from other self-pollinating varieties by long-term fruiting and great resistance to diseases. That is why the variety is loved by Russian cucumber producers.

Variety history

The Dutch company Seminis (Seminis) gave birth to a new variety of cucumbers Masha F1. Initially, Dutch breeders bred it as an early cucumber that tolerates long transportation and retains its presentation for a long time. He justified the hopes placed on him and even surpassed them. Russian gardeners who produce vegetables for sale and summer residents liked it and quickly took a high position in the ranking of the most common varieties. Cucumber Masha F1 was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation in 2000. The variety is suitable for canning and fresh consumption.

Cucumber Masha F1 has small fruits of the same size

Description of Masha F1 cucumbers

Let's consider the main aspects that need to be considered when choosing a variety.

Ripening time and yield

Cucumber Masha F1 is a fairly early variety. From germination to the appearance of edible cucumbers, it takes 36–45 days. It can be planted in early spring in a greenhouse or when the soil warms up to 16-18 ° C - in an open bed. The ideal air temperature for ovary and fruiting development is 25 ° C. It must be held constantly. Another mandatory requirement: the duration of daylight hours is at least 14 hours a day. It is under such conditions that cucumbers grow without diseases, create a powerful root system and thank you with a bountiful harvest. In the spring the day increases, and in the fall it is necessary to turn on the backlight. In case of insufficient lighting, the number of ovaries decreases.

Video: characteristics of Masha F1 cucumber

Creating an enabling environment pays off with generous returns. At 1m2 the gardener will collect 14-16 kg when grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and in the open field - 10-11 kg.

Appearance of cucumbers and varietal characteristics

Cucumber bushes of the Masha F1 variety are undersized. The determinant plant is convenient for growing: there is no need to create additional supports to support fragile wattle fences. All flowers are female, eliminating the need for pollination. The variety is parthenocarpic, so it can be grown indoors (greenhouse, greenhouse, at home on a windowsill). The plant forms shoots a little, which makes it easier to care for it. This sparseness creates natural conditions for airing and subsequently does not complicate harvesting.

Cucumbers Masha F1 have low bushes

Medium-sized leaves are colored in different shades of green (from dark to grassy bright). The plant blooms in small bunches in each node. Inflorescences are not less than 6, can reach 8, but the standard amount is 7. Consistent flowering leads to a harmonious return of the crop.

Cylindrical cucumbers. The average length is 8–10 cm. They can grow up to 11–12 cm, but at the same time they lose their taste. The diameter of the gherkin is 3–3.5 cm. Zelentsy are covered with a skin of medium thickness. The fruits have large tubercles with small thorns of a characteristic dark green color. Blotches may be present in the form of mild mottling or lighter longitudinal stripes.

The fruits, as the scientists aspired, do not have bitterness, which is another plus of the variety.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Masha F1 variety - table

Very early ripening periods, marketable yield of more than 95%Cucumbers quickly outgrow and lose flavor
Friendly fruiting due to the formation of 6-7 ovaries in one nodeRequires daily collection of zelents
High yield guarantee - female type of flowering (more than 10 kg from 1 m2)The fruits do not have a bright rich smell.
Gherkin type cucumberThick skin
Great fresh and canned taste
Transportable, not susceptible to lesions and many diseases


Planting correctly is half the battle in growing record yields.

Selection and preparation of seed material

Seminis warns that additional seed treatment and selection is not allowed. The packaging of cucumber seeds is carried out by Dutch producers, so all the necessary procedures with the seeds have been carried out. Seeds should also not be soaked the day before planting.

Site selection rules and soil preparation

Masha F1 cucumbers love a warm and sunny place. They do not tolerate drafts and prolonged darkening. Any type of soil is suitable for planting, but light soil enriched with humus and with a low level of acidity is preferable. To obtain a rich harvest, manure must be introduced into the soil in the fall. If this is not done, then the soil must be fertilized with rotted manure in the spring, on the eve of planting cucumbers.

Seedling and seedless ways of growing cucumbers

To get a super early harvest, you need to use the seedling method. One seed is sown in peat pots, special cassettes, plastic cups or ordinary bags. The effect will be the same and so will the grooming techniques. Seedlings must be watered and maintained at the required temperature (average 15 ° C).

Young cucumber seedlings

After the appearance of 4-6 true leaves, the seedlings can be planted in a permanent place. It is important that the earth warms up and there is no threat of frost return. Can be covered with foil if the plants are not planted in a greenhouse.

In open ground, seeds are sown in late May - early June. The signal for work will be the warming up of the soil to 15 ° С at a depth of 10–20 cm. The air temperature should be set at 22–25 ° С, night indicators should not fall below 18 ° С. Seeds are sown to a depth of 2-3 cm.

The seeding pattern depends on the type of arrangement of stems and shoots: vertical or horizontal cultivation. In the first case, at 1m2 3 bushes are enough, in the second - 4–5 plants are permissible.


Caring for cucumbers is not very troublesome, but there are some important points to keep in mind.

Watering and fertilizing

Watering cucumbers is recommended in the early morning or late evening. During these hours, the sun's rays are not very hot, so moisture reaches the root system. Drops falling on the leaves do not cause burns. Drip irrigation is considered ideal, close to natural. So it is possible to maintain the required percentage of soil moisture (75–85%). If it is not possible to build such a system, it should be watered abundantly after 1-2 days. Water is suitable only warm, warmed up in the sun. Cold can provoke the dropping of inflorescences and a decrease in yield.

Drip irrigation is best for cucumbers

It should be remembered that the roots of cucumbers are weak and tender. Therefore, it is better to water it not at the root, but in small grooves between the rows. At first, the bucket is enough for 1m2 beds, then this amount of water will be required for 1 bush.

The plant will respond by increasing its fruit to surface loosening (the so-called dry irrigation). Cucumbers Masha F1 do not like shading from weeds. Weeding will help preserve nutrients in the soil, they will go to the cucumber bushes.

Fertilization table

Terms of introductionComposition and amount of fertilizer
Every 10 days from the moment of germinationDissolve 10 g of urea or a liter of liquid manure in a bucket of water
When the first inflorescences appearFeeding with organic fertilizers (manure, bird droppings, ash, compost) 0.5 l per bucket of water
During fruitingPotassium and magnesium (10 g each) per bucket of water
After harvestBucket of compost and sawdust + glass of ash

Other nuances of growing

Since the variety is better suited for growing in a greenhouse, and the constant location in the same place adversely affects the yield, it is imperative to decontaminate the shelter and the land in it. The use of a sulfuric checker has proven itself well.

Variety Masha F1 is suitable for growing in a greenhouse

Disinfection is carried out before planting and after harvesting the entire crop.

Another feature of the Masha F1 variety is the daily collection of zelents. They quickly outgrow, drawing off nutrients from new ovaries. The fruits should be plucked carefully, taking care not to damage the plant's lashes. From such damage, the cucumber bush can die.

The daily harvest of cucumbers Masha F1 allows you to increase the number of new ovaries.

Diseases and pests of cucumbers Masha F1

Masha is resistant to many typical ills of cucumbers, but we must not forget about other diseases and pests.


Hybrid cucumber Masha F1 is bred resistant to the most common cucumber diseases: cladosporia, downy mildew or powdery mildew, cucumber mosaic virus. In case of illness (which happens very rarely), fungicidal preparations necessary for treatment are used.

  1. Anthracnose manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots and pink bloom on the leaves and stem. High humidity leads to disease of the root system and the death of the bush. Preventive tillage (after harvesting or before sowing) helps. Bordeaux mixture or a suspension of bleach is diluted in 10 liters of water (one of the products will require 25–40 g) and the bed is processed 2-3 times every week or 10 days.
  2. Root rot can affect any plant, young or mature. Thinning of the main stem is observed, which leads to the slow death of the bush. The reason is non-observance of the rules of agricultural technology (cold and heavy soil, cold watering, fluctuations in air temperature). It is worth trying 2 times with a break of 2 weeks to treat with Previkur (40 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). If it does not help, then there is only one way - to remove the diseased plant and disinfect the beds and all the equipment that came into contact with it in one way or another.

Cucumber pests

  1. Melon aphids are small insects that destroy the top of the plant. The bush does not bear fruit, and in case of high humidity it dies.
  2. The spider mite is a red-yellow insect that sucks juice from cucumber leaves on the seamy side. It actively develops in hot weather.
  3. Slugs hunt at night. The pests eat the fruits, which reduces the yield.

Inta-vir helps to fight pests. The drug is used according to the instructions. Preventing insects is much easier than fighting them. There are folk remedies:

  • against slugs - ash and lime (pollination of the site);
  • against aphids and ticks - infusion of onions or garlic (100 g per 5 liters of water);
  • a solution of laundry soap and ash (100-200 g per bucket of water).

Diseases and pests in the photo

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting begins at the end of the fourth decade after planting (36–40 days). With the seedling method, you can calculate the collection time if you add 3 weeks to the date of disembarkation of cucumber seedlings to a permanent place. The frequency of collection depends on the size of the collected greens. The smaller the cucumbers you collect, the more often you need to do this. Large fruits inhibit the maturation of new gherkins.

Amicable fruiting cucumber Masha F1

Fruits that have reached a length of 10 cm have a thick skin and taste is lost. Such fruits are unsuitable for canning.

You can store cucumbers in the refrigerator for about a month. You can extend the shelf life by preserving (pickling, salting, using in winter salads).

Cucumbers Masha F1 are good canned

Reviews of experienced gardeners

It is not in vain that the hybrid cucumber of the Masha F1 variety remains the leader among Russian gardeners. Excellent taste, combined with disease resistance and ease of care, does not give other varieties a chance to push it off the pedestal. A gherkin-like cucumber is good fresh and remains appetizing and crispy when canned.

Flamenco pepper F1: description and characteristics of a sweet Bulgarian variety, a photo of a bush in height, reviews about

Today there is a large selection of sweet pepper varieties that have attractive characteristics for gardeners and gardeners. Among them is the Flamenco f1 hybrid. This article will tell you in detail about this vegetable crop and the agricultural technology of its cultivation.

Description of the hybrid

Flamenco sweet pepper is an early hybrid based on a cuboid red bell pepper. Next, we will describe the appearance of the vegetable crop and its fruits.


The hybrid has powerful, with strong stems, erect and spreading bushes, from half a meter to 1 meter high (depending on the conditions of their cultivation).


The fruits of the "Flamenco" peppers are compact on the bushes and have the following characteristics:

  • drooping
  • 3-4-chamber,
  • have a cuboid or prismatic shape
  • during technical ripeness - green-yellow color
  • in the phase of biological maturity - deep red
  • the average weight of one fruit is 160-180 g, sometimes it reaches 400 g
  • compact seed chamber
  • juicy pulp
  • wall thickness - from 6.5 mm to 9 mm
  • medium pepper size - 10-15 cm
  • fruits with a characteristic aroma and sweet taste, without bitterness.

Other characteristics

Now let's look at other additional characteristics of the hybrid.

Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases

The vegetable culture is resistant to unfavorable and stressful environmental conditions, in which the formation of bushes and ovaries is possible.

  1. Plants do well at + 14 ° C.
  2. The most optimal temperature indicator for the growth and development of crops in the open field is + 20 ° C.
  3. If the temperature column is below 13 ° C, it is better to keep the culture under a film or in a greenhouse.

Flamenco paprika is resistant to the following diseases:

  1. Potato viruses.
  2. Tobacco mosaic virus.

Ripening period

The Flamenco f1 variety is early maturing, because the time from the first sprouts to fruit ripening averages 95 days, or 65 days from the moment the seedlings are planted.


Flamenco pepper bears fruit until late autumn and is famous for good yields: on average, up to 8 kilograms of pepper are harvested from one square meter of open ground, and up to 13 kg in a greenhouse. On average, up to 8 fruits can be removed from one bush.


Due to the beneficial composition of the "Flamenco" sweet pepper, excellent taste, juiciness and bright color, it can be used fresh, canned, and also prepare many dishes, combining with almost any product.

Here are a few dishes you can cook with Flamenco peppers:

  • different variations of salads, where fruits are added
  • first courses (borscht, soups)
  • various appetizers with baked peppers (warm salads)
  • sautéed with chicken, mushrooms and zucchini
  • rice with bell pepper
  • vegetable stew
  • stuffing with any fillings
  • cream soup with pepper, cauliflower and cheese
  • canned peppers for the winter in tomato sauce (lecho) or marinade
  • various dishes baked in the oven (ratatouille)
  • desserts (panna cotta)
  • homemade bread with paprika
  • pies with various fillings
  • kurnik
  • kulebyaka
  • jellied pies
  • omelet
  • other dishes.

Growing seedlings, timing, seed preparation, seedling care

The Flamenco vegetable hybrid is grown using the seedling method. Next, let's talk about the intricacies of growing it.

Optimal timing

Seedlings of early Flamenco peppers are planted in the open field in the last decade of May, after 45 days from the moment of sowing the seeds.

Soil mix

High-quality soil for planting the Flamenco hybrid directly affects the friendly germination of planting material and the correct development of seedlings. The soil should be loose and absorb water well.

A suitable ground mix for sowing pepper seeds should consist of the following ingredients:

  • light brown peat with completely undecomposed vegetation remains
  • turf soil
  • sawdust
  • coarse sand
  • perlite
  • humus
  • garden compost
  • vermicompost
  • coconut substrate.

Two options for the proportion of soil composition:

  1. Peat, humus, turf (with the addition of river sand) - 5: 1: 4.
  2. Sod soil, peat, compost (1: 3: 1) with the addition of mineral fertilizers (per kilogram of soil: 1 g of ammonium nitrate + 10 g of superphosphate + 5 g of potassium salt).

Video: preparing the soil for peppers seedlingsImportant additional tips:

  1. After combining all the ingredients of the planting mixture, you need to shed the soil with a light solution of potassium permanganate in order to disinfect it.
  2. To keep moisture in the ground with seedlings longer, a hydrogel is added to the earthen mixture, soaking it with water in advance.

Growing container

You can grow seedlings of peppers in such containers:

  • boxes,
  • plastic jars and cups,
  • cells,
  • peat tablets,
  • small flower pots.

Seed preparation

In order for paprika seeds to have high germination, you can carry out the following actions (one to choose from):

    Selection of quality seeds - prepare a 3% saline solution (30 g of salt per 1 liter of water), pour in the pepper seeds, mix and leave for 5-7 minutes. Full-fledged seeds should sink to the bottom of the dish, and empty ones float. Then the solution with the floating seeds must be drained, the full-weight seeds must be washed, spread out on paper and allowed to dry.

Sowing seeds

It is necessary to sow the seeds of the Flamenco hybrid pepper at the end of February. We emphasize that of all the options for seeding containers listed above, a peat tablet is considered the most convenient, since it is easy to transfer a seedling from it during transplantation, without making a dive, which the peppers do not tolerate well.

If you use wooden boxes, plastic cups or cells for this, then your next steps should be as follows:

  1. Fill the containers with soil mixture, not reaching the top of 2 centimeters, moisten the mixture.
  2. In the boxes, grooves are made for sowing seeds with a depth of 1 cm and an intermediate distance of 5 cm.
  3. It is necessary to sow seeds in boxes at a distance of 2 cm from each other, after which the grooves with seeds should be sprinkled with a small amount of soil.
  4. Cover the top with plastic or glass to reduce moisture evaporation.
  5. After a week, the seeds should sprout, after which the glass or plastic must be removed so that the seedlings do not overheat.

Video: sowing pepper seeds

Seedling care

Further care for sweet pepper seedlings is as follows:

  1. Appropriate place. Containers with sown seeds should stand on a warm windowsill or near a radiator.
  2. Moisture. The soil in the containers should be checked daily for moisture. Water the seedlings with warm water with a temperature of + 28-30 ° C, avoiding waterlogging of the soil.
  3. Sufficient illumination. You can provide the seedlings with the optimal amount of light by connecting LED or fluorescent lamps from 7 am to 9 pm.
  4. Optimum temperature. The daytime temperature should not exceed + 25-28 ° С, and the nighttime temperature - + 22-24 ° С.
  5. Top dressing. Once every two weeks, seedlings need to be fed with ready-made liquid organic fertilizing. Suitable for this: "Krepysh", "Agricola", "Solution", "Lux", "Fertika".
  6. Air humidity. Ventilate the room regularly, avoiding drafts, and spray the plants with a spray bottle.

Hardening of seedlings

14 days before planting seedlings in open ground, they must be gradually accustomed to temperatures from + 15 ° C, as well as to fresh air.At the same time, it is imperative to protect the seedlings from direct sunlight.

What can be done to harden pepper seedlings:

  1. Open a window or window during the day.
  2. Expose seedlings to a ventilated veranda or balcony.
  3. Take it outside in clear and calm weather.
  4. Gradually increase the time the seedlings stay outdoors, starting at 15 minutes per day.

Planting your own seedlings to a permanent place

Planting sweet pepper seedlings in open ground must be approached responsibly: adhering to the required deadlines, choosing a suitable place and planting using the correct technology. Further growth and yield of the crop will depend on compliance with all these requirements. Now let's dwell on each requirement separately.


Dates for planting seedlings in open ground and other subtleties:

  1. Approximately 45 days after sowing seeds and germination of seedlings, seedlings should be planted in open ground.
  2. By this time, the pepper bushes should have 8 to 12 leaves.
  3. The average daytime temperature during the day should be at the level of + 15-17 ° С, and the nighttime temperature - + 10-12 ° С.
  4. Usually, constant temperatures are established after the last frost in May - from 10 to 30 May. This period is considered the most suitable, since during this period there is no longer a threat of spring frosts, and the culture will have enough time to ripen the fruits in August-September.
  5. Despite the above-zero temperature, at first it is necessary to cover the seedlings with a film.
  6. If the seedlings are intended for planting in a greenhouse, then they are planted a little earlier - from May 1 to May 15.

Choosing a place on the site

The quality and quantity of the harvest directly depends on the placement of sweet pepper bushes on the site.

Requirements for the location of the culture:

  1. The site should be well warmed up and illuminated by the sun.
  2. The place should not be blown by the wind.
  3. It is unacceptable to plant a crop in wet and low-lying areas.
  4. Areas with acidic, sandy and clayey soils are unsuitable.

Crop rotation plays a very important role in the agrotechnology of the "Flamenco" bell pepper.

Good predecessors for it are:

  • cucumbers,
  • green crops,
  • zucchini,
  • onion,
  • legumes,
  • early cabbage.

It is not recommended to use the place where nightshade crops were previously grown (bell peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, paprika, physalis, eggplants), as it may contain pathogens of these crops.

Planting scheme and depth

The landing pattern and its depth should be as follows:

  1. Before planting seedlings, on the site you need to mark the rows and prepare the holes.
  2. Considering that the Flamenco bushes are tall, leave a distance of 60 centimeters between each bush so that the plants do not drown out each other's growth.
  3. The same distance should be between the rows.
  4. The wells are prepared with a depth slightly greater than the height of the seedling container.

Video: planting pepper in open ground There is another way to grow salad peppers - square-nesting: seedlings of two bushes are placed at the same distance from each other (60x60 cm).

Care Tips

As with any garden crop, the Flamenco pepper needs the right care for it:

  1. Watering.
  2. Weed weeding.
  3. Loosening the soil.
  4. Tying.
  5. Timely feeding.


Watering the culture is not often, as the soil dries.

Watering bell pepper bushes should be carried out according to the following system:

  1. For the first time, a culture is watered during its direct planting, while moistening the hole for planting, and not the plant itself.
  2. After 5 days, watering at the root is repeated.
  3. Further normal irrigation regime (in the absence of frequent rains) - every 7-10 days. This irrigation frequency should be maintained until the first fruiting.
  4. During the mass collection of peppers, a break is made in watering.
  5. Regular irrigation resumes with the arrival of the next flowering period of the bushes.

Soil care

Proper soil care, which includes loosening, creates favorable conditions for the development of culture, namely:

  1. Allows the culture to grow faster.
  2. Provides air exchange for the roots.
  3. Will increase the activity of beneficial microorganisms.
  4. Get rid of weeds.

When loosening the soil under the crop, it is important to remember some aspects:

  1. In the first 14 days after planting, loosening is not desirable, since during this period the roots of the plants begin to strengthen.
  2. The first time you need to loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 10 cm.
  3. Subsequent loosening should be done after each watering and rain.
  4. A sign when you need to loosen the soil is a slightly dried soil without a crust.

Soil mulching is another step in plant care. For the first time, mulching is carried out during persistent above-zero temperatures, when the earth is already sufficiently warmed up. Mulch from straw or chopped weeds is poured under the bushes and in the aisles in a layer 5 centimeters thick.

Video: why and how to mulch the soil correctly Around the stems, you need to leave space for air circulation, otherwise the root collar will rot and fungus may develop on the plants.

This procedure provides the following benefits:

  1. Conservation of soil moisture.
  2. Reducing weeds.
  3. No overheating and drying out of the soil under the bushes.
  4. Improving soil fertility.

Top dressing

For normal growth and the formation of a good yield of sweet pepper "Flamenco", it needs timely feeding with the correct composition of fertilizers.

When applying fertilizers, it is important to observe the following recommendations:

  1. For the first time, pepper feeding should be applied 14 days after planting in a permanent place of growth. Top dressing can be urea or poultry droppings diluted in water (1:20). Pour one or two liters of solution under each bush.
  2. The second feeding is done during fruit setting. You can use an aqueous solution of mullein (1:10). After such feeding, the beds are sprinkled on top with wood ash.
  3. For the third time, the culture is fertilized after the beginning of fruiting. The same solution of bird droppings will do as in the first case.


So that tall bushes of the "Flamenco" hybrid do not break from touching them, and also do not fall under the weight of the fruits, it is advisable to tie them to supports. For this purpose, you can use stakes that are installed near each plant.

You can also tie the bushes to the trellis made of twine stretched between the posts dug in at both ends of the row. Not only the plant itself is tied to them, but also the overgrown branches.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Flamenco hybrid pepper variety has many advantages and is practically devoid of disadvantages.


  1. Fruits of high palatability.
  2. The hybrid is resistant to diseases and viruses.
  3. Suitable for transportation, and has a presentation for a long time.
  4. After collection, it is stored for a long time and does not lose its juiciness.
  5. Can be grown both in greenhouses and outdoors.
  6. Recommended for fresh consumption and for processing.

  1. The hybrid is sensitive to temperatures below + 13 ° C.
  2. In hot air (over + 35 ° C), flowers may crumble.
  3. Without support in the garden, bushes can break under a large number of fruits.

Considering all of the above about the hybrid variety of Flamenco pepper, we can conclude that this is a garden crop suitable in all respects for growing in our open spaces, which significantly enriches our diet with vitamin dishes and various pickles. Observing all the rules of agricultural technology for its cultivation, you can get a generous harvest on your site.

Cucumbers on the windowsill in winter - the best varieties

For many years, growing cucumbers on the windowsill has become commonplace for those people who do not have a summer cottage or garden plot. It should be noted that they can be grown not only on the windowsill, but also on a heated loggia, as an option for cucumbers, a glazed balcony may also be suitable.Many varieties are designed specifically for home cultivation, mostly hybrid cucumber varieties that are pollinated without insect interference. The main part is occupied by parthenocarpic cucumber hybrids with female flowers, which are tied without pollination.

The benefits and conditions of home cultivation of cucumbers

Growing cucumbers on a windowsill in winter is not only fun, but also beautiful from an aesthetic point of view. Young cucumbers grown on the windowsill are pleasing to the eye, besides, they are environmentally friendly. And blooming on your windowsill in winter, they will remind you of the warm summer, and exude a pleasant aroma of country beds. In order to grow cucumbers on a windowsill in winter, you must comply with a number of requirements:

    It is necessary to provide the cucumbers with additional lighting, artificial lighting is suitable in this capacity, ideally you can use a fluorescent lamp. In the absence of such, cucumbers can be planted from mid-February, when there will be more sunlight.

Many lovers of fresh cucumbers in winter try to adjust the harvest for the New Year in order to surprise guests with the fruits grown on their windowsill. If you also want to boast of such successes, you should plant cucumber varieties in early November. Naturally, not all varieties of cucumbers are suitable for this. Basically, these will be parthenocarpic varieties, which are recommended not only for growing on windowsills, but also for greenhouses. In any case, all the detailed information can be read on the back of the package, most of them write whether such varieties can be grown on a windowsill or balcony.

Seedling soil

In addition to the conditions described above, it will not be superfluous, it will also take care of the soil for your cucumbers grown on the windowsill. The ideal option for fertilization is the use of a soil substrate, in an amount of at least 5 liters per adult cucumber bush. In this case, the root system will receive everything it needs for growth.

The soil mixture can be prepared with your own hands, for this they usually use ordinary soil (garden), adding humus, sawdust, sand and ash to it in equal proportions.

The best varieties of winter cucumbers

There are a number of varieties that are designed specifically for growing in winter, these cucumbers are the best in terms of resistance to temperature extremes and increased shade.

Hybrid Khutorok

A variety with fast ripening of fruits, after planting the seeds, the first cucumbers will appear after a month.

It is referred to as pollinated by bees, but if desired, it can be pollinated by hand, for this you just need to pick the male flowers and hold them with stamens along the pistils of female cucumbers. For a more convenient process of pollination of cucumbers, it is recommended to use a brush. The fruits of this variety have high palatability, greens grow medium-sized about 10 cm, with black thorns, characterizing the variety as universal, intended for pickling and eating raw.

Cucumbers Shchedryk

On the best examples of these plants, you can harvest up to twenty cucumbers about 12 cm in one harvesting period.

This hybrid can also be attributed to early ripening cucumbers grown on the windowsill. Ripening period does not exceed one and a half months. It can also be said that this variety has one of the best fruiting characteristics of those grown on a windowsill. On one ovary, from 5 to 8 zelents are formed, with an overall small size of the bush.

Hybrid Khrustyk

With proper care of the plant, even on the windowsill, the crop can be harvested in 40 - 45 cucumbers per seedling.

These cucumbers have a slightly longer ripening period, it is usually one and a half to two months, this variety is self-pollinated and high-yielding. Usually, from five to seven small greens are formed on one ovary.

Onega F1

Hybrid Buyan F1

A small shrub provides an average yield of up to 8 kg of cucumbers, the variety is classified as universal, it is equally good for consumption both fresh and salted.

It has a fairly long ripening period, up to 50 days after planting, the disadvantages include the need for additional lighting in winter. The bred variety, tested for twenty years of good yields, is used more often for growing on a windowsill in winter.

Emelya F1 variety

The fruits of this variety are quite large, weighing up to 150 grams, and the ripening period for them is 40 - 50 days after planting.

Parthenocarpic hybrid of cucumbers, has high cold resistance properties. This gives him an advantage over other varieties that yield a harvest in winter, as a result of this, somewhat worse. It should be noted that this variety is most often used for growing in a greenhouse, but they take root well on a balcony or on a spacious and well-lit windowsill. Initially, the variety was bred for fresh consumption, but it can be used for any purpose.

Ant F1 hybrid

On one ovary, from 3 to 7 zelents are formed, growing up to 100 grams. And for the entire fruiting period, you can collect about 4 kg.

It is usually recommended for indoor or outdoor use, but practice has shown that it can also be grown on a windowsill. A distinctive characteristic of this variety of cucumbers is a fast ripening period, in winter it is 38 to 40 days. Convenience adds its belonging to the parthenocarpic species, which excludes the process of manual pollination. Another important property for growing on a windowsill is a slight overgrowth of the bush in width.

Babylon F1

Probably the longest ripening variety of cucumbers, recommended for growing in winter. The ripening period reaches 70 days, provided there is good lighting and no drafts.

The color is predominantly female, with 1 to 3 flowers per node. Zelenets is quite large, reaches 28 cm long and weighs 240 grams. It is prone to bundle formation of ovaries, and has a high yield.

Early ripening hybrid Masha F1

This variety begins to bear fruit after 40 days from the moment of planting, it also has a high resistance to various diseases.

An important nuance will be special care during the formation of the ovary. Of all the varieties grown on a windowsill or balcony, Masha F1 has the largest clustering of brushes, it reaches 7 cucumbers per ovary, this is partly due to the small size of an adult fruit, they do not exceed 10 cm in length. Cucumbers of this variety have a dark skin and high tuberosity, which indicates that they belong to the pickling family.

Variety with the self-explanatory name Miracle on the window F1

The fruit of a cucumber grown on a windowsill reaches a maximum length of 8 cm, like all small cucumbers, they are distinguished by good taste.

Parthenocarpic cucumber variety shows high results in yield per bush, in relation to other varieties. The fruiting period begins on average 40 - 45 days after planting.


Here are the best varieties, directly or indirectly, bred for planting on the windowsill, most of them show excellent fruiting results in winter. Others need additional conditions for this, such as the absence of sudden changes in temperature or enhanced illumination, but in any case, choosing any of these varieties, subject to the necessary requirements, you will get high results.

The best varieties of cucumbers for growing on a windowsill in winter

Fresh vegetables in the cold season will be a pleasant and healthy addition to your daily diet. To do this, it is not necessary to buy imported products in the nearest supermarket; it is quite possible to organize a mini garden in your own apartment.

In order for the cultivation of cucumbers at home on the windowsill in winter to be crowned with a good harvest, you should select special, parthenocarpic hybrids - varieties that do not need pollination. Each of them has its own negative and positive qualities, knowing which it is easier to achieve the desired result.

This variety is specially designed for this type of cultivation. The first crop of full-weight green fruits up to 15 cm long can be obtained 45 days after planting the seeds.

"Shchedryk" is not picky about light, therefore it is ideal for windows facing the north side of the house. With regular watering and observing the temperature regime, one bush gives up to 20 fruits per season.

Rytov's room cucumbers

The best variety of cucumbers for growing on a windowsill in winter, specially bred.

High-yielding, bushy, does not require a special garter and additional lighting with a short daylight hours. Demanding for heat and watering, responds well to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

The F1 hybrid, relatively young and not very well-known, has proven itself well among indoor-scale gardeners due to the following qualities:

  • self-pollinating
  • high yielding
  • resistant to the most common diseases
  • suitable both for fresh consumption and for salting.

The main disadvantages of the variety can be attributed to its photophilousness, therefore, when planting on a shaded window sill, the daylight hours should be increased with the help of lamps.

Russian winter

The variety was bred in 2013, based on the Klin plant varieties, glorious since the days of Tsarist Russia for their increased resistance to diseases.

They have remarkable qualities characteristic of the main variety:

  • shade resistance
  • low branching
  • good marketability and taste.

Unlike other varieties, it has pimpled fruits with faint whitish stripes.

Brownie Kuzya

The varieties of cucumbers for growing on the windowsill in winter, selected taking into account the peculiarities of indoor cultivation, differ significantly from the types of plants intended for open ground.

This variety is noted by many amateurs for the following qualities:

  • low demand for lighting
  • resistance to temperature extremes in the room
  • fertility - 2-3 bushes produce up to 10 kg of full-weight products per season
  • taste qualities.

Loves watering with warm water and loose soil. It is good both fresh and as lightly salted billet.

It belongs to the earliest hybrids. The first crop in the amount of 5-6 medium-sized greens can be obtained one month after germination.

  • does not outgrow
  • bears fruit well indoors
  • resistant to powdery mildew.

  • needs additional lighting in winter
  • picky about feeding
  • lashes grow strongly, so large windows should be chosen for growing.

The variety responds best to watering with organic fertilizers - for example, a manure solution prepared at a rate of 1:10.

A relatively young hybrid, equally suitable for both a greenhouse and for growing cucumbers on a windowsill in winter.

A distinctive feature of the variety is its high yield and excellent taste of the fruit - the characteristic bitterness is removed from the zelents at the genetic level. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted a strong branching and tallness - 2-3 bushes on the windowsills are able to completely shade the room.

City gherkin

A mid-season gherkin that tolerates well the lack of light in winter.

Differs in special productivity and resistance to powdery mildew and olive spot. Several bushes, planted on the windowsill, are capable of producing up to 20 kg of full-bodied pimpled fruits with a thin skin and good density in a short time.

An excellent variety, of Dutch origin, it makes growing cucumbers on the windowsill very exciting and profitable in winter.

It is prone to tuft of ovaries, which allows you to get high yields in a small area, tolerates temperature drops and low air humidity well. Subject to all the rules of agricultural technology, the fruits grow up to 40 centimeters in length.

Moscow greenhouse F1

One of the oldest hybrids, bred in Soviet times, is distinguished by its large fruit size and good resistance to various diseases.

With regular watering with warm water and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, it gives up to 15 kg of high-quality salad products.

Alternative type of container

In order to use the entire window sill space as efficiently as possible, containers should be used that allow the bushes to be placed close to each other without damage to the root system. Growing cucumbers on a windowsill in winter in a package is a great replacement for bulky wooden boxes or buckets.

For this purpose, only dense polyethylene products with a capacity of at least 5 liters should be used. It is imperative to install a pallet under the mini-bed, where excess moisture will be collected, flowing from the drainage holes located at the bottom of the bag. Caring for plants in such a container is identical to the generally accepted one used for bushes planted in rigid containers.

VIDEO: how to grow cucumbers on the windowsill?

This video tells about the principles of planting and growing cucumbers on the windowsill, common to all varieties: ">

How to grow cucumbers in winter in an apartment: on a windowsill or balcony

In winter, there is a lack of tasty and healthy vegetables and fruits. Of course, you can buy greenhouse vegetables at the market or in stores, but a more original way out is to plant cucumbers in containers on a windowsill in an apartment or balcony. However, before starting the process, you should know the technology for growing cucumbers at home.

Features of growing cucumbers on the windowsill

Sowing cucumber seeds on the windowsill and further growing a vegetable does not require special training or special knowledge of care (everything is similar to sowing and growing in open ground), so even novice amateur gardeners can cope with growing at home.

Another thing is that you have to create certain conditions for the growth of cucumbers in an apartment or on a balcony in order to get a decent harvest.

When can you grow cucumbers in an apartment: the optimal sowing time

Naturally, it is most convenient to sow and grow cucumbers on the windowsill with the onset of spring, in other words, when daylight hours begin to grow.

However, if you can create artificial conditions (by additional lighting), then home cucumbers can be grown all year round, including in winter.

What varieties are suitable for growing in an apartment

For planting and growing on a windowsill (window) in an apartment or on a balcony, both the most common (extremely early) parthenocarpic (in other words, not requiring pollination, hybrid - marked with F1) varieties are suitable, as well as special balcony varieties (they either have a name like would hint at the growing conditions, or the instructions clearly state this).

Important! For growing in an apartment, on a windowsill, only parthenocarpic varieties should be taken. But on the balcony - this is not necessary, because there they can be pollinated by pollinating insects.

Also, a variety for growing at home should be shade-tolerant, in other words, tolerant of a lack of light (for obvious reasons). It is also very important that the variety is not vigorous, but optimally weak or medium-sized (with not very actively forming side shoots). If you plant a highly branched variety, then it will simply fill the entire space on your window or balcony.

The following varieties of cucumbers for home cultivation on the windowsill in the apartment are distinguished: Openwork, Athlete, Courage, Kustovoy, Connie, Real Colonel, Our Masha, Mertus, Merenga, By the pike's command, At my will, Prestige, Premium, Talisman, Clean ponds, Pharaoh, Room, Room miracle, Miracle on the window, Balcony, City gherkin and many others.

Thus, by choosing the right varieties for growing at home, you can plant cucumbers yourself in an apartment and get a rich harvest in the cold winter months.

Video: especially growing cucumbers on the windowsill - choosing seeds, sowing and care rules

How to sow cucumber seeds in an apartment: basic growing rules and step-by-step instructions for direct sowing

Before you start sowing, you need to choose the right place for growing, as well as create optimal conditions (temperature and light).

Important is the choice of capacity, soil and pre-sowing preparation of cucumber seeds for direct planting.

Location: illumination and temperature

Growing cucumbers in winter is quite common. All kinds of greenhouses are used for these purposes. But if the apartment has a free window sill, or even better, an insulated balcony or a glazed loggia, where you can equip a cucumber farm, then why not grow them at home.

Idea! Place the pot of cucumber away from the door, in the very corner of the balcony; be sure to put at least 12-15 cm thick foam under it (the roots should be warm). Glue or place cardboard with reflective foil on the walls.

Video: growing cucumbers on the balcony - from seeds to fruits

The place for placing containers or pots of cucumbers must be selected preferably from the south side (but not at all, you still have to illuminate with lamps), after all, the plant is sensitive not only to sunlight, but also to heat. If it is cold on the window, for example, you have old frames, then by all means seal all the cracks.

With normal supplementary lighting, of course, cucumbers can also be grown on the northern window (balcony), especially on the western or eastern window (you still don't have to shade them from direct sunlight).

The winter sun is not long, and sunshine is important for cucumbers. Therefore, in order (especially in late autumn, winter and early spring), it is recommended to highlight the seedlings with special phytolamps, providing 12-16 hour daylight hours. You can also supplement the illumination using conventional (or better full-spectrum) LED lamps.

Advice! Lamps should be turned on in the morning and in the evening (let's say that the light was from 7-00 to 23-00) and kept at a distance of 5-10 cm from the plant.

The best temperature for fast and active growth of cucumbers at home is +20 .. + 23 degrees. Note that at a temperature of + 16-17 degrees, growth stops.

Important! The most important thing when growing cucumbers on a windowsill is the absence of drafts and sudden changes in temperature (including night and day).

Planting capacity

Naturally, you will need suitable containers to grow your own cucumbers. Both wide containers (balcony boxes) for several plants and single large pots are suitable.

Important! You should not grow too many plants in one container, as they will press against each other - they will begin to compete for food, and this will not allow them to actively develop and increase mass.

Note! The roots of cucumbers do not spread in depth, but along the surface of the earth. Therefore, the wider the area around the cucumber stem, the better!

Naturally, the container must have drainage holes for excess moisture to escape. You also need to remember that a cucumber is a plant with a developed root system, which means that for the plant to be comfortable, the container must be large enough (at least 5 liters per plant).

Interesting! An unusual way to grow cucumbers at home is to plant them in bags. From above and below, make holes for sowing, watering and draining excess liquid (drainage), and put the bag with earth on a tray where excess water will flow.

The well-known gardener blogger tells in more detail in the following video:

Video: growing cucumbers in a bag on the window

Note! You can grow cucumbers in an apartment both with a pick and immediately in a large container.If you want to transplant, then first plant in small containers (for example, cassettes or 100 ml cups). Then, when the first true leaf appears, dive into a slightly larger container (500 ml), and then (when 2-3 true leaves appear) into a permanent pot (1 plant per 5 liters).

Suitable soil

For high-quality growth of cucumbers, it is required that the soil is fertile and loose, good moisture and air permeability. Such properties are possessed by purchased soil for indoor flowers or a special substrate for growing pumpkin crops.

But the best soil for growing indoor cucumbers will be a soil substrate made by yourself. For cooking, you will need the following components: peat, river sand or vermiculite, humus and wood ash (optional, for feeding).

Attention! After mixing, the resulting fertile substrate must still be disinfected. Moreover, it is also better to disinfect the purchased soil, just in case. It should be baked in the oven for 20-30 minutes, and then spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin. Such preparation measures have a beneficial effect on the elimination of pathogenic bacteria and fungi hiding in the ground.

Seed preparation

Before sowing cucumber seeds into the soil, it is advisable to carry out their pre-sowing preparation, namely, germinate on a wet napkin or cotton pad. Take one wet disc, sprinkle seeds on it, cover with another (also wet), put it in a cup and close a lid so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly. Typically 1-2 days are sufficient at room temperature.

Do not allow the napkin (cotton pad) to dry out or, on the contrary, excessive moisture (so that the seeds "bathe" in water).

Worth knowing! The seeds of the hybrids, as a rule, have already been disinfected and selected (calibrated), so there is no point in keeping them in potassium permanganate or soda / saline solution.

How to grow cucumbers in winter in an apartment: on a windowsill or balcony

Forming cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse

This important stage in the development of a vegetable must not be missed. For this, greenhouses are equipped with trellises, you should also use a pinch. The stem of the plant should be between 0.5 and 3 meters in length. The bush forms when the eighth leaf appears. Already at the very beginning, in the first three sinuses, you need to pinch the flowers.

See also: How to properly form a tomato bush in a greenhouse and open field

The temperature regime inside the greenhouse must always meet certain requirements. Before the beginning of fruiting, the air temperature is needed +20 degrees, at night - at least 17. During the period of fruit formation in clear weather - 28, and on cloudy days - 22 degrees.

When growing cucumbers, it is also necessary to monitor the soil temperature indicators. Sudden changes can lead to diseases of the culture, and this also negatively affects the taste of the fruit.

It is necessary to monitor the humidity inside the greenhouse:

  • before fruiting - 80%
  • after - 90%.

We grow tomatoes on the balcony with our own hands

To grow tomatoes, you do not need to have a land plot outside the city. City apartment owners can harvest tomatoes on their balconies. True, they may not be enough for winter preparations, but it is quite possible to satisfy the needs of a family of 4 with summer vegetable salads. You can grow tomatoes on a balcony with and without glazing, slightly changing the way you care for plants.

  1. What varieties of tomatoes to choose for growing on the balcony
  2. Seed preparation for sowing
  3. Growing seedlings
  4. Transplanting seedlings
  5. Caring for tomatoes on the balcony
  6. Diseases of tomatoes
  7. Growing tomatoes on a non-glazed balcony

What varieties of tomatoes to choose for growing on the balcony

On the balcony, you can plant any tomatoes: undersized and tall, early, medium and late ripening varieties. But you need to take into account the possibilities of the balcony.Since it is impossible to allocate sufficient area for a garden with tomatoes on it, you should choose the varieties that are most suitable for growing in a limited space. For example, if you plant tall, late-ripening tomatoes, the bushes will take up a lot of space, and the fruits will have to wait until August. In addition, the developed root system of such tomatoes requires a large volume of soil, which is difficult to provide in a small balcony.

Low-growing tomatoes for the balcony:

  • Pearl.
    The height of an adult bush reaches only 40 cm, the fruits are round, small, grow in clusters of up to 7 pieces. They have a sweetish pleasant taste
  • Angelica.
    Early ripening tomato variety, ideal for growing on the balcony. The ripening period from germination is approximately 80 days. Fruits are ovoid with a sharp tip at the end, of medium size, growing in clusters of 6-10 pieces
  • Minibell.
    Early ripe tomatoes with a short growing season. Fruits are red, small, grow in clusters, ripen almost simultaneously
  • Florida Petite.
    A low-growing early-ripening variety, fruiting lasts only 3 weeks, but during this time several dozen red, sweet-tasting salad tomatoes can be harvested from one bush.

Popular varieties for the balcony garden are cherry tomatoes. In size and shape, they really look like large cherries. Fruiting profusely, in long clusters, they are red, yellow, pink and even black. Cherries are grown not only for the purpose of obtaining delicious tomatoes, they are very effective and are often used for decorative landscaping of balconies.

Cocktail tomatoes are a spicy novelty from breeders. Their fruits are slightly larger than cherry tomatoes, suitable for canning, fresh consumption and making pizza and other dishes. Cocktail tomato bushes are tall, require a lot of land to grow, and have good yields.

Balcony cocktail tomatoes:

  • Butterfly.
    Fruits are elongated and beautifully shaped with a smooth surface. On highly branched inflorescences, more than 20 small tomatoes of a bright red-raspberry color can grow
  • Romantic.
    A high-yielding variety, the bush grows up to 1.6 m in height, the fruits are of the correct round shape, weighing about 50 g
  • Ballerina.
    Also a tall variety of tomatoes, it produces fruits of an unusual pear-shaped, bright pink color.

Seed preparation for sowing

To remove the first fruits of tomatoes in June, you can start preparing seeds for sowing in February. If several varieties of tomatoes are taken for cultivation, they should not be mixed - each variety goes through the preparatory stage separately. In order not to confuse the varieties, each of them is signed.

Seed preparation:

  • A solution of light pink potassium permanganate is being prepared, seeds are dropped into it and etched for 3 hours
  • You can replace potassium permanganate with the chemicals Fitosporin and Trichodermin. They have a bactericidal and fungicidal effect and destroy carriers of diseases on seeds, the presence of which is impossible to visually determine.
  • After disinfection, the seeds are treated with biostimulants that increase germination and revive the damaged seed. For biostimulation of tomatoes, Epin-Extra and Zircon preparations are used
  • The seeds are placed in a humid environment (moistened cloth) and left on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2 days. Hardening will prepare future plants for unstable air temperatures, making them more resistant to nighttime temperature drops.

Growing seedlings

At this stage of growing tomatoes, the goal is to get strong, healthy seedlings. The future harvest depends on how viable it is. It will be very sad not to get the expected result after the attached labors.

Sowing seeds

A layer of expanded clay is poured into a plastic or wooden box 8 cm high, and on top is a soil mixture of equal parts of fertile soil, peat and sand. The soil is spilled with warm water, and when the liquid is well absorbed, grooves with a depth of 1 cm are made across the entire width of the box. The distance between the grooves is 4 cm. Seeds are laid out in these grooves at intervals of 2-3 cm from each other, sprinkled with earth and covered with a film. The boxes should be kept in a warm room until shoots emerge.

Seedling care

Watering is not plentiful - the soil is maintained in a slightly moist state, since at this time there is a high probability of infection of the plants with a black leg. To prevent the soil from eroding during watering, it is simply sprayed from a spray bottle. If water gets on the seedlings (and this will surely happen), the balcony is ventilated, and the temperature rises slightly for a while until the leaves dry out.

Seedling care

Hardening of seedlings is carried out regularly. On warm days, the windows on the balcony open for several hours, and close at night. If the main stem, especially its lower part, has acquired a blue tint, this indicates an increase in the plant's immunity and adaptation to cold temperatures.

For irrigation, settled drinking water at room temperature is used. Watering, as before, is carried out moderately, without waterlogging the soil. It is also important to loosen the soil to maintain its aerating properties. Loosening is done carefully so as not to damage the roots that are close to the surface. In order not to injure the plants, loosening can be replaced by mulching: a low layer of peat is poured between the plants, which will prevent the formation of a crust on the surface and reduce the number of waterings.

Top dressing of seedlings

Transplanting seedlings to a permanent place

In early April, when the seedlings reach one month old, you can transplant them to a permanent place. By this time, from 4 to 6 true leaves are formed on the plants, it becomes cramped for them in the general container, and the sprouts will stretch regardless of the degree of illumination and moderation in watering. Simultaneously with the transplant, a dive of tomato seedlings is carried out - a mandatory procedure for tomatoes grown on the balcony. After picking, the root grows to the sides, becomes more massive and, naturally, better provides the plant with useful elements.

Seedling picking:

  • The soil in boxes with seedlings is abundantly moistened so that the root extracted from it is damaged as little as possible
  • Taking by the stem near the ground, the plant is pulled out of the soil along with a small clod of earth on the roots
  • Scissors, treated in an alcohol solution, cut off 1/3 of the root
  • In the prepared container, a recess is pierced with a stick, and the root is placed in it up to the cotyledon leaves. This planting depth for tomatoes is normal, since additional roots are formed on the stem over time.
  • The plant is watered, the soil near the stem is lightly crushed with fingers.

Low-growing tomatoes are planted two at a time with a distance of 5-10 cm from one another, and tall ones one at a time in a container. If the seedlings are planted in large boxes, the plants are placed at 40 cm intervals. Tomatoes are grown in any suitable container.

Where to plant tomatoes:

  • Flower pots
  • Cut plastic water containers
  • Plastic buckets and deep basins
  • Wooden boxes
  • Balcony boxes for flowers.

Immediately after transplanting, the windows on the balcony are shaded, and the air temperature is maintained within 18-20 degrees - in such conditions, the plants will more easily endure a stressful situation and quickly adapt to a new place. When the stems of the tomatoes are straightened and the leaves are straightened (after about 2 days), the shading can be removed.

Caring for tomatoes on the balcony

For tomatoes grown on the balcony, conditions should be arranged as close to natural as possible.The complex of measures for the care of tomatoes includes providing plants with watering, loosening the soil, maintaining a stable temperature and humidity, as well as pollination and fertilization.

Temperature regime


Watering is carried out with settled tap water as the soil dries out. Since, unlike garden beds, direct sunlight does not fall on the soil, watering of tomatoes on the balcony is carried out less often than in open ground, and is regulated by the degree of moisture in the earth. Before the formation of the ovary and during the formation of fruits, the soil is maintained in a moderately moist state, and when the tomatoes begin to ripen, it is better not to overmoisten it. Slightly dried soil will help the fruit ripen more quickly.


Since indoor tomatoes are not accessible to pollinating insects, windows should be opened regularly. To attract bees and other insects, you can put a couple of flowerpots with plants with a strong smell on the balcony: nasturtium, petunia, lavender.

Good results are obtained by spraying plants with a special agent "Ovary", which stimulates the formation of an ovary.
Irrigation with a stimulant is carried out when the seedlings get stronger after transplanting to a permanent place and during the budding period. Artificial pollination of tomatoes is also carried out. When the flowers bloom, they are shaken or carried along the inside with a soft brush. The procedure is performed twice daily.


Aeration of the soil is important for the good development of the root system. The dense crust formed on the surface of the earth after irrigation does not allow the soil to be saturated with oxygen. When the earth dries up slightly, loosening is carried out. For this, a garden hand tool with a short handle and three teeth is used. Loosening is carried out superficially, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the stem, so as not to damage the root system of plants.

Top dressing

It is usually difficult to find organic fertilizers in urban conditions, therefore, mineral fertilizers are often used to feed tomatoes grown on the balcony. For this, the means Solution and Kemira-universal are used.

If it is possible to fertilize with organic matter, mullein or bird droppings are used. In 10 liters of water, 1 liter of organic fertilizers is diluted and infused for about 2 days. After that, the infusion is diluted at the rate of 1 liter per 10 liters of water and applied at the root.

Plants overfed with fertilizers can give a reverse reaction and begin to build up green mass, therefore, when preparing solutions, the proportions indicated on the packages should be observed and the recommended rates should not be exceeded.


The shoots forming in the leaf axils deplete the plant, its forces are spent on the formation of green mass, and the yield of the bushes decreases. Grasshopping, or removal of excess shoots, is carried out regularly, as soon as they reach 2-3 cm.
The stepchildren simply break out with their hands, and the injured place is sprinkled with wood ash to avoid plant infection. Removal of excess shoots is carried out during the entire vegetative period. Also, during pinching, the lower leaves touching the ground are cut off. Thanks to this, air will not stagnate under the bushes and the likelihood of infection with infectious diseases will decrease.

Diseases of tomatoes

Tomatoes grown indoors are more susceptible to fungal infections than outdoors. During the treatment of seeds, the plants have already received a margin of resistance, but nevertheless, it is worth taking preventive measures to avoid contamination of the plants. The balcony should be regularly ventilated, if possible, the windows are open around the clock, and are closed only in damp weather with a decrease in temperature.

In addition, the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture 2-3 times during the summer.

Growing tomatoes on a non-glazed balcony

If there is no glazing on the balcony, the cultivation of tomatoes is carried out in the same sequence as on the glazed one. The only difference is in the timing of sowing the seeds and the content of the seedlings.

Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out from the beginning to the end of March, depending on the climatic conditions of the region. The further north the area is, the later the seeds should be sown. After the emergence of shoots, the boxes are placed on the windowsill and are there until transplanted into permanent containers. At this time, lighting with fluorescent lamps is organized to extend the daylight hours. Seedlings are taken care of in the same way as if they were grown on the balcony. When warm days come, the boxes are taken out to the balcony for hardening, first for 30 minutes, and then for several hours. This is the most difficult procedure physically, since the seedlings must be taken out every day and brought back into the room.

In early - mid-May, the seedlings are picked, and they are kept indoors for two more days, after which they are taken out to the balcony. Tomato pots are placed on tables, shelves, racks. At this time, you should carefully monitor the weather forecast, and if there is a threat of night frosts, bring the plants into the room at night, or cover them with foil, bedspreads. You can also spray the leaves with water - this will prevent the death of plants from hypothermia.

It takes a lot of work to grow tomatoes on the balcony. But the end result, when beautiful, tasty tomatoes grown with your own hands appear on the table, will make up for all the efforts expended.

A short video with tips:

The best varieties of cucumbers and the secrets of high yields

The commander Napoleon was a famous lover of fresh cucumbers. He promised untold riches to those who would find the secret of keeping them fresh in long military campaigns. But, unfortunately, no one was able to come up with something sensible. Although, probably, Napoleon simply did not know all the charm of pickled or pickled cucumbers. Meanwhile, their taste is not inferior to fresh crispy vegetables. But as it turned out, not every cucumber will be salted.

How to understand the varieties of cucumbers and how to plant seeds for a large harvest, we will tell you in this article.

To obtain strong shoots and active growth of shoots, stimulation and hardening of seeds should be performed before planting. As growth stimulants, both specialty store mixes and home remedies are suitable. You can soak the seeds in an aqueous solution of honey or aloe leaf juice at a 1: 1 concentration. Duration of soaking is 6-10 hours.

Germinate seeds on a damp cloth under cellophane, creating a greenhouse effect. Thus, it is possible to activate the growth of the embryo and start the process of sprout formation. Germination of seeds is carried out for 2 days at a temperature of + 22-24 ˚С in a dimly lit place. Please note that if after 3 days the seeds have not swollen and sprouts have not appeared, it is useless to plant them in the ground. But do not worry, "Home and Garden" guarantees high quality planting material and seed germination up to 98%.

Hardening is keeping barely germinated seeds for a day in conditions of low temperatures, most often in a refrigerator. Such preparation will increase the resistance of an adult plant to temperature extremes.

Sometimes it is recommended to process the planting material that has not yet sprouted with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such prevention will help avoid some diseases in the future. But if you buy seeds from our store, be sure that disinfection is unnecessary. The planting material from "Home and Garden" is not only "clean", but also hardened to most diseases.

Depending on the sowing time and weather conditions, cucumber seeds can be planted outdoors or in individual containers. In the latter case, Home and Garden recommends using peat tablets as containers for seedlings.They will become an excellent fertilizer for grown seedlings after planting and will preserve the root system of a young plant, provide good drainage and air circulation. By the way, the seedlings of cucumbers do not tolerate picking very well, therefore planting all the seeds in one large pot is not the best idea.

The ground must be constantly moist. Spraying the topsoil is done every 2-3 days using warm water. To avoid moisture evaporation and create a mini-greenhouse, cover the pots with cellophane until the first shoots appear. The optimum temperature regime for seeds during this period is + 24 ... + 28 ˚С.

After the appearance of the first greenery, the film is removed and the seedlings are hardened at + 16 ... 17 ˚С for 3 days. This will produce shorter, fleshy stems. Adequate lighting and a temperature of about 20 ° C will be optimal conditions for growing seedlings for the next 15-20 days.

Planting sprouts in open ground is done in moistened holes after the soil warms up to 15-20 ˚С, and the seeds - after the soil warms up to 15-18 ˚С. Therefore, to obtain an early harvest, it is especially advantageous to grow seedlings in advance.

Plants are often watered. On hot dry days - every day, but during cloudy cool weather - once every 5-7 days. The cucumber loves warm, settled water. The optimal volume of water per 1 m2 of soil for young plants is 5 liters, for flowering plants - 10 liters, and for plants during the fruiting period up to 15 liters. Remember, the best time to water is after sunset.

A week after rooting, add soil around the sprout to form additional roots. This will increase the inflow of nutrients from the soil, and hence the yield. During the period of growing green mass, it is important to ensure the correct and complete formation of the bush. Special attention is paid to climbing varieties. Lateral shoots are subject to pinching (breaking off the extreme bud on each of the shoots). It is necessary to leave 4-5 sheets on each lateral layer, thus strengthening the generous fruit-bearing buds laid in the sinuses.

Cucumber fashion trends

This is not only a spring curiosity on your table, but also a winning option to trade. After all, the demand for such products will be great, as will the price.

An excellent option for a universal culinary purpose. Compact cucumbers with dense skin and delicate fragrant pulp are good both for salad and for pickling. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and root rot.

An excellent variety for pickling, moreover, compact, dense cucumbers are suitable for transportation. A distinctive feature of these cucumbers is their unrivaled taste and lack of bitterness.

They are distinguished by resistance to various diseases and a long fruiting period.

We have long been loved by gardeners for excellent taste when salting. The mid-season variety has a high yield of bushes, unpretentious in growing conditions.

These are crunchy sweet cucumbers for industrial cultivation. One to one, tight and dense, they are well transported and stored. And the bush itself is medium-sized and tall, resistant to powdery mildew and not picky about temperatures.

This is a powerful plant (with one main stem), resistant to most diseases of cucumbers, tolerates cold snap, drought, lack of lighting. Fruits are dark green, long, juicy, sweetish in taste.

Multiple varieties

A variety of cucumbers for pickling and salads. Absolutely no bitterness. Small dense fruits with soft crispy crust and fragrant pulp will become your favorites. The ovary on the bushes is abundant, bundle. The plant is not afraid of root rot and powdery mildew.

Cucumbers ripen in abundant batches, because the plant forms up to 8 ovaries at the node. Fruits are 10-12 cm long with white thorns and small pimples. Suitable for salting. Delicious and aromatic.

Greenhouse varieties

An unsurpassed ingredient in summer salads.It has a fresh cucumber aroma, thin delicate skin, sweetish taste. High yielding and early maturing, it is suitable for growing in greenhouses and greenhouses.

New for this season. A salad variety with long juicy fruits weighing up to 200 g. It tolerates partial shade, drought, cultivation in greenhouses and greenhouses, while giving a stable bountiful harvest.

Soil varieties

This is a cucumber exclusively for outdoor use. Bee-pollinated, early maturing and high-yielding, this variety is loved by experienced gardeners for its unpretentiousness, endurance to weather changes and excellent taste.

Another variety for winter harvesting. The crispy and juicy fruits of this plant reach a length of up to 10 cm. They are well stored and are distinguished by high commercial qualities. And its high yield and resistance to most diseases makes the Zasolochny variety the leader among cucumber varieties grown for sale.

For balconies, patios and window sills

A hybrid species with a compact stem and short internodes, which is why it tolerates growing in a small space and is not susceptible to most diseases. Fruits are juicy, long, well suited for salads. Early maturing, provides a moderate yield for a long time.

This is an excellent mid-season salad cucumber. A weakly braided bush forms a bundle ovary, which allows you to get a considerable harvest from one plant per season. In addition to being resistant to powdery mildew, it tolerates irregular watering and partial shade well.

You can find seeds of these and other varieties in the "House and Garden" store. For our clients, we have prepared an assortment of seeds of various types at a bargain price. This way, you can taste different varieties without spending extra money.

Watch the video: Gurken. Wir säen 6 verschiedene Gurkensorten an!

Previous Article

Rodent proofing fruit trees

Next Article

Small fruit tree cage